I had wanted to return to Guilin, this small picturesque city in Guangxi province since my first visit 12 years ago. I had lost so many photos when my camera was stolen in Xi'an and some of the most cherished were taken here.
I was especially fortunate to come at a time when the guihua (桂花, Osmanthus fragrans) for which the town was named, were in bloom, filling the air with a sweet smell one doesn't usually associate with cities. It was a nice mix of old and new, with not too many people at the time visiting.
Guilin is situated within an area rich in beautiful landscapes, and diverse culinary and cultural experiences, like much of southwestern China. I had the opportunity to visit a village home to the Red Yao tribe, whose women are famous for their long hair. The Yao people are a sizable minority, present throughout Vietnam, Laos and Southern China. I was a bit torn about seeing entire villages now dedicated to tourism, and wonder what is worse - losing culture to modernity or having it reduced to its most presentable elements.
Adjacent to the village were some of the massive terraced fields famous to the Guilin region, and the foggy winter day was perfect to just wander around and forget everything.
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