Varadero and Havana, Cuba (11/26/2012-11/30/2012)

This was my third time in Cuba, which is rare as I don't generally like to repeat travel destinations, but I had a soft sport for the socialist nation and birthplace of salsa, given its rich culture, and history. Certainly didn't go there for the food (even the local food is surprisingly bland and stale). It was a place I went to both relax and soak in a bit of old Latin American culture.

In the past, I've found the Cubans to be extremely warm, and exceptionally talented (in both art and mechanics as evidenced by their immortalized classic cars from pre-embargo era); they did things because they enjoyed them, as money was never something they really considered. This has changed vis-a-vis my last visit 6 years ago. One example - pervasive tipping culture - every extra action required a tip, such as fetching a coconut from a tree that was my height.  Maybe it was just my luck with the resort.  They were still warm and welcoming, but materialism is certainly creeping in and some of the ugliness associated with have and have-not. Hopefully it won't go too far.

As for what we actually did - aside from lounging around and decompressing, had the chance to actually swim with dolphins, something I've wanted to do since I was a small child. Amazing experience, even in the chilling rain and cold water.  We had arranged semi-legally with the resort manager to book a private car to take us around Matanzas province and tour both the 'real' and 'sanitized' Havana to get a sense of both what the tourists are shown and how Cubans really live.

In the 'old' Havana - the buildings were a bit run down but some efforts at restoration of these centuries-old structures have been made. It was clean, had a modern feel (with cafes, street vendors, lively atmosphere, etc).  Unsurprisingly, 'new' Havana felt a little different - it was quite dirty and depressing - lots of propaganda, idle people, litter and terrible pollution (from unregulated auto emissions).  It was a little sobering, but important to see.

As bleak of a description that I've given, the country definitely seems to be improving economically since my first visit in 2001, and my only hope is that they don't lose their character and culture in the process.