Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Tiger's Nest, Bhutan (11/26/2013)

The Taktsang Palphug Monastery (famously known as the Tiger's Nest) was our final stop and one of the highlight activities of our Bhutan trip. Built originally in 1692 (and subsequently rebuilt after a tragic fire in 2005), it is a testament to the deep spiritual culture of the Bhutanese - each brick was carried hours along a treacherously narrow path to its final resting spot on a cliff face. People still die reaching this place on a fairly frequent basis, despite recent efforts to widen the trail (one story immediately coming to mind being a Japanese photographer who stepped a little too close to the edge when photographing the monastery).  

We had the option of either hiking up the 900 meters (vertical distance) or riding a pony. My better half chose the pony, and the owner that accompanied her was this amazingly fit betel nut-chewing 70-year old woman that made the trek up and down at least 5 times a day. She was in far better shape than both our tour guide and myself [and our tour guide was a few years younger than me and in much better shape!] 

It was quite late in the day, and as such, we had the entire monastery to ourselves - eerily quiet and serene. Unfortunately no photos were allowed (and no electronics were permitted within - not even mobiles), and you'll just have to take my word that it was a fantastic feeling meditating in an ancient place, situated 3000 meters above sea level, in the midst of a near-vertical cliff.  A truly unforgettable experience.


Punakha, Bhutan (11/24/2013-11/25/2013)

Punakha and the surrounding area was utterly beautiful. Golden valleys, serene monasteries and abundant wildlife made for a very relaxing couple of days.  The Druk 11000 (local beer, very strong, yet very smooth), combined with high altitude, helped a bit with this as well.

One of the more notable sites we visited was the Chimi Lhakhang monastery, famous for its phallic paintings and fertility blessings.  Built in honour of the "Mad Saint", Lama Drukpa Kunley, who had a rather controversial way of teaching Buddhism (you'll have to wiki it yourself, as I keep my blog PG-13), it is a very popular place for those having trouble conceiving to boost their chances of success, as well as find out the gender and name of their firstborn. Well, we just happened to be in the area, and apparently, we will have a daughter :). 



Dochula Pass, Bhutan (11/24/2013; 11/25/2013)

On the drive between Thimpu and Punakha, we stopped at the Dochula Pass, which on clear days, allows for a majestic view of the Himalayas.  Fortunately we were able to catch a glimpse both on the way there and back.  Constructed on the plateau were 108 stupas (chortens) that commemorated a victory in 2003 over Indian insurgents in the south of the country. 

The drive to and from were full of turns and surprises - including victorious student soccer teams, vivid examples of why you should drive slowly, and some of the nicest roast corn I've ever had.  Will let the pictures speak for themselves.