Laos is an often overlooked or 'last' country in most travelers' Southeast Asia itineraries, and I am sad to say that I am no exception to this. It doesn't feature prominently in the international press with its natural scenery, culture, or architecture, and there aren't many famous Lao people who could act as cultural ambassadors and draw tourists. To rule Laos out based on this, however, would be a real pity.
It is a landlocked country roughly following the shape of Vietnam to the east, with a similar land area, but only 7.4% of its population! Part of this may be due to the fact that it was the world's most heavily bombed country per capita (during the Vietnam War, the Americans carpet bombed the country to attack Viet Cong supply lines), and the other in that it's largely agrarian.
For 400 years it was Southeast Asia's largest empire, but now it is one of the poorest countries in the world - how things do change! A series of devastating wars and revolutions in the past, and up until today, rampant corruption and low levels of education. can be thanked for this.
Despite the hardship and poverty, Laos is gifted with natural beauty, abundant resources, and a kind, relaxed, and deeply spiritual people - so much so that Lao families send all of their boys for 'national service' in monasteries for years at a time.
Luang Prabang itself is a sleepy ex-French colonial city of 55,000, resting on the banks of the Mekong river. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and has recently been made more accessible by direct flights to Singapore, Malaysia and China. It feels like a slower more relaxed version of a Northern Thai city - in part helped by the similarities of Lao and Thai language and culture, and that the Lao cuisine is like a spicier version of Isaan.
The slow pace of life, great food, and nice scenery make Laos the perfect place to turn off the cell phone, shut the laptop and unplug for a bit, and I only hope that through increased contact with tourists and the global economy, the country will improve for the better, but keep its rustic charm and identity. Time will only tell.
Friday, April 28, 2017
Sunday, April 23, 2017
Northern Armenia (10/23/2016 - 10/26/2016)
The next and final segment of our journey involved visiting the north and west of the country, including the ruins of Zvartnots (large cathedral from the 7th century), Ejmiatsin (oldest 'official' church in the world), Gyumri, Lori (beautiful mountain scenery), Dilijian and Lake Sevan.
Ejmiatsin was really quite a special experience as it was Sunday morning mass in the oldest state-sanctioned cathedral in the world (built in the year 301!) and to top it off, the head patriarch of the Armenian orthodox church was in attendance and personally blessed my wife.
Gyumri was an old cultural centre of Armenia, home to actors, poets, and philosophers, and the second largest city in Armenia. It had suffered as of late due to several factors including a massive earthquake in 1988 - many think it's on the rise again. It's also home to the best fish I've ever eaten in my life - BBQ'd sturgeon, farmed nearby in cold mountain spring water, as well as a bar, located across the street from a brewery, with a tap that connects directly to the brewery's beer tanks.
Dilijian is referred to as the Switzerland of Armenia, in its idyllic mountain setting, and Lake Sevan is the highest lake in the Caucasus at ~1,900 m.
All in all, a really wonderful trip. I know I've left out a lot of details, and could have posted many more photos - hopefully it's enough of a taste to make you want to visit as well as learn more about this culturally rich and ancient place off the beaten path. We'll definitely return again one day.
Zvartnots / Զուարթնոց and Ejmiatsin / Էջմիածին
Amberd Fortress / Ամբերդ and Gyumri / Գյումրի
Lori / Լոռի
Dilijian / Դիլիջան and Lake Sevan / Սևանա լիճ
Lastly, a small selection of the great music we heard during our trip
Ejmiatsin was really quite a special experience as it was Sunday morning mass in the oldest state-sanctioned cathedral in the world (built in the year 301!) and to top it off, the head patriarch of the Armenian orthodox church was in attendance and personally blessed my wife.
Gyumri was an old cultural centre of Armenia, home to actors, poets, and philosophers, and the second largest city in Armenia. It had suffered as of late due to several factors including a massive earthquake in 1988 - many think it's on the rise again. It's also home to the best fish I've ever eaten in my life - BBQ'd sturgeon, farmed nearby in cold mountain spring water, as well as a bar, located across the street from a brewery, with a tap that connects directly to the brewery's beer tanks.
Dilijian is referred to as the Switzerland of Armenia, in its idyllic mountain setting, and Lake Sevan is the highest lake in the Caucasus at ~1,900 m.
All in all, a really wonderful trip. I know I've left out a lot of details, and could have posted many more photos - hopefully it's enough of a taste to make you want to visit as well as learn more about this culturally rich and ancient place off the beaten path. We'll definitely return again one day.
Zvartnots / Զուարթնոց and Ejmiatsin / Էջմիածին
Amberd Fortress / Ամբերդ and Gyumri / Գյումրի
Lori / Լոռի
Dilijian / Դիլիջան and Lake Sevan / Սևանա լիճ
Lastly, a small selection of the great music we heard during our trip
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